Sunday, March 29, 2009

Soccer Cops

The governments of Chile and Peru are in the ring fighting over ocean territory. Peru wants to redefine the border, while Chile's saying forget it. Word is that Peru will take it to the international court in the Hague if need be.

But why take it all the way to the Hague? Why not settle it over a soccer match instead? Soccer and politics are equally popular here; and curiously, both cultural obsessions tend to fail the people more than serve them.

Chile's no match for Brazil or Argentina in soccer, but the people go crazy over a win nonetheless.

So it was tonight. Chile beat Peru 3-1 in 90 minutes. I went to my friend Felipe's to watch it. We muted the TV and listened to radio commentary instead. There's more bias towards Chile. News specials after the game showed scores of fanatics dancing and singing in Plaza Italia, the city's center, ten minutes walk from my house.

We quickly flagged down a bus and drove to the madness. What a sight. Hundreds of Chileans jumping up and down in a massive circle, drinking beer and smoking cigarettes. I didn't know the words to the songs they were singing and felt rather out of place. One highly inebriated man climbed ten feet to the top of the Metro sign and waved his shirt around his head like a helicopter as the crowd went wild for him. He was greeted by the riot police-- a blur of green uniforms-- upon descent. The police are intense looking, but not that intimidating. Most of them are scarcely over five feet tall. Napoleon complexes, I suppose. Tonight they were dressed like football players, there to stifle the fans of soccer players. They wear helmets with plastic masks, bullet proof vests and elbow, arm, knee and shin pads. One expected them to start rollerblading in synchrony around the mob.

After the Metro Man was detained, his behavior clearly out of accordance with Chilean ethic, the mob switched from celebratory to combative. For two or three minutes it rained beer bottles on the police. But the police didn't retaliate, even though under attack. It was exciting to witness, adrenaline pumping through me all the while.

The party lasted about 45 minutes before the cops broke it up. To untie the knot, a high-pressured water tank rolls slowly towards the crowd, ready to spray at the defiant. Tonight, when the tank neared, everyone took off at a jog--(not running, as that suggests fear of the police, but not walking either, as that means getting pelted with a jet of water).

Felipe and I managed to stay dry, though others got the drink. Now, we wonder, will Chile stay dry, or will Peru get the drink?

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